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Recent bottles

March 23, 2010

Egly-Ouriet Brut Rose, Disgorged 2002 (48m on lees):
To my tastes, the recent string of wines from E-O are the most idiosyncratic and compelling I’ve had from Champagne. This rose followed suit, showing a brilliant copper-salmon, almost orange-winey. The wine is composed of 60/40 Pinot Noir to Chardonnay, with the addition of a small amount of still Pinot Noir for color. The still Pinot is held in high regard in and of itsel,f and is bottled as a Ambonnay Rouge Coteaux Champenoise in riper years.

Very floral on the nose, and still quite tight and youthful on the palate. Almondy richness at the core, with tons of red and green apple and massive acidity. Great food wine – even with red meats this has enough cut and power to pair. Another winner, although I believe the Blanc de Noirs still has a leg-up on this.

Domaine de la Pepiere – Muscadet Sur Lie 2009:
Big and ripe right out of the gates – more melon and tropical notes than usual, but the salty, minerally backbone is ever-present. Acids still there too, just sitting behind the fruit vS centerstage. Juicy. I had a glass and checked in 24 hour later. As usual, it loosened up nicely – some fruit residing, some mineral advancing. Fantastic stuff, absolutely appetizing.

Bielsa Garnacha Vinas Viejas 2008: Jose Pastor is the man. His name on the back label is a blessing in a sea of spoofulaccion. Super juicy tank-raised garnacha from 80+ year old vines.  Direct and medium deep with red and black cherries, some dried herbs and a meaty irony minerality. Surprisingly well structured for an under $10 wine, with acidity and tannins all in place. A steal. Grenache haters, this is the wine that will get you back into the fold this spring.

Oratoire St. Martin, Cairanne Cuvee Prestige 2005: Chateauneuf duh what? I paid $15 for this, it clocked in at 13.5%ABV and was absolutely singing with soulful old-vine Grenache/Mourvedre character. Berries, spice market, a great velvety texture, and so much chalk on the finish I had to dust the table afterwards. This is real Southern Rhone wine with strength and grace. Bravo Alary family.

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