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wow wines…

December 28, 2009


Egly-Ouriet Blanc de Noirs VV (2002 disgorgement) and the 2004 Overnoy/Houillon Arbois Pupillon Savagnin: Both amazing wines, with some strange similarities – both just brimming with character; The champagne–big bright red apples, blood orange, and generous hazelnuts. It had this strange Burgundian earthy umami quality, with a perfect vein of maturity (from 48 months of aging on lees, and 7 years in bottle…). Still years of upside and so concentrated.

The Savagnin was unbelievably alive and vivid on the palate – it just danced with fresh apricot, citrus, almonds, and an insanely mineral finish they just went on and on. I can see what all the fuss is about. I wish I had a cellar full…and will certainly grab any bottles that I may come across. I got this bottle from Chambers Street Wines this past summer – but there seems to be none left anywhere…Where are these obtainable? And where the hell is the Poulsard?

2002  Huet Vouvray Petillant: Exceedingly vibrant, floral, crunchy and precise. Definitely of the same quality as a great Champagne, but expressively Chenin. Perfect pairing with Michel Bras’ mushroom soup.

2008 Lapierre Morgon: Had a glass, yummy, but very primary – like pure cherry juice, and a bit soft. Gave it 24 hours and came back – much more like it. The acidity poked up and focused the whole deal. Secondary spice notes popped up but before I could really geek out, it was gone. Devilishly easy to drink. With balsamic fried eggs (subbed butter for Olive Oil and nono on the non-stick).

2007 Philemon Gaillac Croix d’Azal: Gross. Jalepeno, daikon, and funk. Fruitless and watery. Poured out. I’m a fan of Braucol, but this is Guy-yack.

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