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Thomas-Labaille Sancerre “Les Monte Damnes”, Chavignol 2007

September 23, 2009


From the “Damned Mountains”, which apparently damn industrial wine-making techniques like mechanical harvesters due to the steep hills – and encourage winemakers to spend more time in the vineyard. This is always a good thing.

Tight and a tad grassy on the first night.  Vigorous acidity with signature peas-and-chalk Sauv Blanc character. On the second night, more accessible – a touch fleshier with lemon candy and rosin. Considerably less green-ness too.

There is a real elegance to the proportions here – something like a classical ballet. Nuance and expressiveness within a strong fundamental framework. Maybe not power so much, but youthfulness and some grace. The finish is an intro-course in minerality. Fruitier with air, but by no means fruity. A great summer sipper now, but I think with some time this will become more cerebral. Typically a great partner with goat cheeses, the bright citric cut was actually fabulous with tacos.

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