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Domaine du Vissoux Beaujolais Cuvee Traditionelle VV 2007

August 17, 2009

Pierre Chermette is one of the great natural vignerons of Beaujolais. He believes in low yields, picking ripe with no chaptalization, and uses native yeasts to avoid the ‘banana effect’ that many cultured, industrial yeasts bring. His old-vines cuvee is typically a serious overachiever in the category . For ~$15US, you can almost always count on a very solid and truthful Gamay, made with love and reflective of the vintage (Which in 2007, seems to be all about expressive and accessible fruit, across Beaujolais)

This wine is vividly and explosively fruity. Vines of red raspberries, thicket and earth. There almost a Pinot-Noir character on the palate – silky and soft and a little chewy, but impossibly light. This reminds me a bit of the Brun L’Ancien 2007 right on release (the Brun seems to be a little shut down right now to me). I don’t get layers of esoteric aromas and flavors (not a whole lot of the graphite and crayon or 5-spice that Cru Bojo sometimes brings), this is more a thing of directness and truth.

This is definitely hard to resist right now – but after trying the ’04 of the same cuvee earlier this year, I wouldn’t be in a too much of a hurry. This is a Swiss-army knife with food. Dare it to clash.

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One Comment leave one →
  1. August 27, 2009 11:07 am

    I dig the swiss army knife metaphor, Jonathan. And, probably needless to say, I’ve been a big fan of Vissoux’s basic Beaujolais for many a year. Always a reliable, characterful performer.

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