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Jura and Touraine

July 27, 2009


Stephane Tissot, Poulsard, Vieilles Vignes, Arbois 2006: Stunning wine, and my first excursion into the Jura, specifically Arbois and with the indigenous Poulsard grape. This had me instantly with a nose that jumped out of the glass with clarity and freshness – wild bramble, raspberries, strawberries and an underpinning of mixed fresh herbs, spices and earth.

It brought together the best parts of Southern Rhone spice and garrigue, Burgundian finesse and the Loire freshness, but had a clarity of character all its own. The palate was so pure with ripping acidity – the nose was seductive but the palate punchy –  lifting the wine up and floating in the mouth. The tannins were quite grippy and apparent but not overwhelming or veiling. Time, cheese or fat will sort them out. The finish is rought with quartzy-shisty minerality. This wine was best on the first day, but still drinkable and intriguing on the 4th – with the fresh fruit giving way to a plum skin and mineral mix.  If this is entry level at under $20 – my door is now totally open, and my ears are on to get more. Stay tuned….


Domaine de la Tue-Boeuf – Le Brin de Chèvre, Touraine,  2007: 100% Menu Pineau. Fierce, bright, super-light and zippy. Lime zest, Granny smith apple  and white peach on the nose, with a linear, tart palate. Tight when popped cool, but it looseded up after an hour to show some more midpalate weight and chalky finish. Not as esoteric at this point as some of the other Puzelat efforts, but truly invigorating, fun and a perfect shellfish partner.

Clos Roche Blanche, Cuvee Gamay, Touraine, 2008: I’m afraid I’m either really missing something or got another slightly off bottle of this wine. This was my 2nd and last bottle purchased earlier this summer, and it showed exactly like the first. Synthetic Cork version. Balsamic with a slight pepperiness with a nip of cherry and bay. Maybe prune. I’m thinking both bottles either got a slight ‘cooking’ in shipping (it was in the mid 70s when shipped)  and/or some VA/vinegar taint somewhere along the way.  Still – while pretty much fruitless, there was an amazing limestoney mineral character on the backend that was unharmed and unharnessed.  I drank it to see what if things would blow off – and while interesting, I just kept thinking that something was off. Unfortunately these 2 bottles have been my only exposure to the esteemed estate,  I need to explore more when the weather cools down and shipping becomes a viable option.

2 Comments leave one →
  1. guilhaume permalink
    July 31, 2009 10:40 am

    that brin de chevre is amazing!! everyday it crosses my mind as the one wine i want to drink.

  2. jseeds permalink*
    July 31, 2009 10:58 am

    yea…I would totally rock this wine daily if 1) I could obtain it (no local distribution), and 2) it was a smidge cheaper… There were definitely hidden dimensions it was starting to unveil, but we drank it before it could show them…

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