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Gamay & Muscadet

April 23, 2009


Domaine de la Pépière, Clos des Briords, 2007, Muscadet sur Lie: Staggeringly precise and focused, with laser-beam acidity and mouthfulls of schisty good minerals. A ghost-like whiff of citrus and green apple (but the vast majority of the experience is just wet rocks here) on par with an excellent bone-dry Riesling or Chablis for a fraction of the price. On day 2 it traded some in some vigor for a slightly more harmonious midpalate. A new favorite of mine.


Duboeuf Julienas Chateau des Capitans 2005 Cru Beaujolais: I know Duboeuf stands for the Beaujolais ‘Establishment’ but they are partly responsible for bringing the region into the limelight in the 70’s and 80’s – in any case,  this bin-end bargain just surprised the heck out of me. Open for 3 days just with a cork, it evolved slowly and steadily without going over the hill.

Great Gamay tipicity, with ripe red cherries, sour red currant and graphity-pencil-box. The acidity could have used a little boost overall to my taste, but there was enough fruit and some juicy tannins to keep this wine alive for 3+ day. With time, it developed some eastern spice characteristics and relaxed a bit. Accessible and clean.

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