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Grosset Riesling “Polish Hill” 2006, Clare Valley

March 11, 2009


~$30US, 100% Riesling, Clare Valley, South Australia

Considered by some of be one of Australia’s greatest dry Riesling, this was a treat to unscrew and enjoy. Pale green-straw in color with a nose that continued to evolved over 2-3 hours. Initially very compact with a lanolin and chalk slurry nose with some lime and green apples  – it started to develop into a very “round” nose of fresh apricots and watermelon with an integrated oiliness. It reminded me of the old-school watermelon and sour-apple  ‘Now and Laters’ – the long ones that you could lick and sharpen to a point. Except you just dropped it into the playground pea-gravel that had some a little oil spill on it, and you ate it anyways.  I just couldn’t stop smelling this wine when it got about 3 hours of air – tightly woven layers of aromas that kept going in unexpected directions.

The palate was quite fierce in its acidity and focus. At first, it was just blasting my palate with the acid attack and discombobulated in the midpalate – but as it opened it really filled out nicely and showed a lively transition from the attack through the finish. There is so much minerality here it’s obnoxious…It clearly possesses a different character of mineralty than Mosel or Nahe wines – a somehow ‘rawer’ smashed gravel and less flinty-slatey.

This is a great wine showing a “New World” Riesling that shows impeccable wine-making, a minerality that would please even the the gnarliest spelunkers / rock-heads , and most of all  – a vigor that didn’t stop. It woke up slowly, but was positively dancing as that last drop was sipped.

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