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N. Joly, Les Clos Sacrés 2003, Savennieres

February 22, 2009
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100% Chenin Blanc, Savienneres, Loire Valley, France

My first wine from banker-turned-biodynamic-zealot Nicholas Joly. This wine was offered as a great price from local wine-bar that seems to be doing things really right, Chalk. The also had the big brother, one of my ‘grail’  wines, the Coulée de Serrant – which is known for improving over the span of a week in the decanter.

The ’03 Clos Sacres was born on a warmer year in the Loire, which typically means more exhuberance and ripe character than the classical ’02 and ’04. The color was a striking gold portenting richness and maybe some (good in my book) oxidation. On the nose, honey and flowers all over the place – chamomile, acacia, orange blossom – held together with a lemony core.

The palate, seductive and tricky – the nose pointed towards a more unctuous, sweet style, but the palate clearly maintained a central nerve of acidity and lift. Medium weight but altogether fresh, with some almond  nuttiness and some tropicalia coming through on the midpalate.  Finished long and dry, as Savennieres typically do. Beautiful pairing with sweetbreads or heartier fish dishes.

This is a living, evolving wine, which demands attention. I was crazy about it- and most of my friends enjoyed it and had to take a pause to think about how unusual it was.  Superb.  I hope I have the opportunity to try its big brother soon…

2 Comments leave one →
  1. February 22, 2009 7:01 pm

    I had a bottle of the 2004 back in May that was really, really good.

  2. November 27, 2012 3:58 am

    Just drank one over Thanksgiving weekend. Yes, it’s now 2012 and it was the 2003 vintage. And yes, the wine was amazing.

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