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WBW: Villa Sparina, Gavi di Gavi, 2007

February 18, 2009

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~$18US, 100% Cortese, Gavi di Gavi

Gavi is one of the Piemontese wines you don’t hear a lot about…but it’s a wine that is working hard to outgrow the notion of  being a “quaffer”.  While I believe a lot more Gavi gets consumed than people are talking  about –  this wine from the massive hands of Stefano Moccagatta bears mentioning as a serious example of what the region has to offer.

First of all, the bottle shape and label are beautifully quirky and minimal – like some sort of modern potion. The clear bottle reveals a rich golden color – giving the wine an appearance of  authority. Aromatically cleanly perfumed with citrus and white flowers. A spash of lemony acidity on the palate, followed by surprising weight and richness. There was a very clear cheesy-leesy floral signature here that reminded me of ripe Taleggio cheese, and it was fascinating. Even though the Gavi seemed nicely plump  in the mid-palate – it was managed well with great snap of crispness on entry and finish that made it refreshing and stylish. It wasn’t afraid of air-time and room-temperature either – the final glass showed softer – with integration, length and some secondary minerality coming through. This one could actually age a year or two in the cellar and show new dimensions. Drink this while you are cooking, or with seafood and light pasta.

As I am tasting my way through all the crazy white wines of Italy (there are so many wild varietals) – this wine stands out as being a serious, well-made and versatile white under $20. And while some folks might called it a “quaffer”, I’d rather call it “accessible” –  but it packs on an extra couple of layers of interst that rewards those who look deeper. Somewhere between old-world Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, a solid Cortese like this deserves a place in most geeks’ cellars.

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3 Comments leave one →
  1. February 19, 2009 3:09 pm

    Thanks for participating in “A Passion for Piedmont,” Jonathan. You’re one of the few to have selected a Gavi for this month’s tasting.

    cheers,
    David

  2. philip Chan permalink
    December 31, 2009 7:48 pm

    Where can I buy the wine at good price, I live in Hong Kong. Thanks

    • sino vantage asia permalink
      February 8, 2010 10:00 am

      Dear Philippe,

      Our company is the importer of Villa Sparina in Hong Kong. Feel free to contact us anytime.

      regards. Herve

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