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Geil Scheurebe Kabinett ‘Bechtheimer Heilig Kreuz’ 2007

January 15, 2009

~$14US. 100% Scheurebe, Rhienhessen, Germany

Scheurebe?! (Shoy-raybah) is an early 20th century hybrid grape – the scientific results of crossing Riesling with a wild vine (some speculate Sylvaner) to create a more resliant, robust grape. When grapes are hybridized, a wierd Gestalt thing tends to happen and the results are almost never a simple 1+2=3 equation (think Cabernet Franc + Sauvignon Blanc yielding Cabernet Sauvignon wayyyyy back when). That being said, there are some similarities with Riesling here (high acidity and the vinification within the QmP system – Kabinett ‘rating’) but it clearly has a feel all its own.

This is a highly aromatic wine – with fruit coming into precise focus. Where a Riesling might tend more toward apple, pear and peach – this was so obviously orange Creamsicle and red currant. The profound expression of red currant here is moreso than any red wine I’ve ever had. Some jasmine too. On the palate the wine is a swell ride: it moves from the well-concentrated, ripe fruit through a touch or orange-pip-bitterness and comes to a close with firm acidic lift. It’s definitely on the riper side, but Geil nailed the balance. I could see how an Beerenauslese or TBA Scheurebe could be very seductive.

There are gobs of character and fun here, especially for those who enjoy food pairing. It lit up with citrusy/spicy Chinese cuisine. I would try this with all types of food – both exotic and the ordinary – to see how the sweet/sour/orange/currant components play with others. Tonkatsu? sure. Pork belly? yum. Pancakes with bacon? I’d give it a try…More applause for the impeccable Thiese catalog – This is definitely not a curiousity -This this is real, solid wine that I will certainly revisit and experiment with.

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One Comment leave one →
  1. January 20, 2009 12:10 am

    Fun article. My favorite wine of last year was a Scheurebe, 2005 Domaine Bernhardt — another Terry Thiese selection.

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