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Setzer Riesling, 2007, Austria

January 12, 2009

This Riesling (~$23US) from the utterly unfailing portfolio of Terry Thiese has been described as one of the best Riesling values in his 2008 book. Unlike the majority of its countrymen, it was sealed with a cork – albeit synthetic – which is fine by me. It poured a mellow golden color, quite a bit richer in color than the Hirsch a few weeks ago. Leaping from the glass with surprising complexity – very clear apricots, surrounded with wintergreen, pine tree, red cherry and pineapple.

The palate was a ripe fruit extravaganza – I hesitate to call it hedonistic, but the fruit was there for the picking. Apricots and cherries, balsam, with a maritime character underneath. Bone dry at 13% ABV, with no heat and a fullness and weight that was rich but never fat. Transitioned beautifully. It loosened up overtime, becaming rounder and easier to dillineate the flavors. Seductive, polished, well-proportioned.

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