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Michel Chignard, Fleurie ‘Les Moriers’, 2006

May 27, 2008

~$22US, 100% Gamay, Fleurie, Cru Beaujolais

This summer’s Beaujolais adventure takes me to Fleurie, one of the 10 Crus in the region known for it’s eponymous floral aspects. This is my first 2006, which I understand to be a textbook year in Beaujolais, yielding characterful and focused wines.

Bright ruby color with the slightest yellow and magenta hues at the rim. There is a cool haze, which I attribute to the importer ‘s (Kermit Lynch) appreciable insistence on non-filtering for purity. Very aromatic nose – strawberries and violets go on and on – very clear and definite. The palate is soft and sweet on entry and moves into a cranberry tartness which is just mouthwatering. Pencil-box flavors come into focus for a moment and more flowers and spice hit toward the finish – something like a sandalwood soap (?) – but cranberries and strawberries really persist. The lightest dusting of tannins finish it out. Can I say strawberries again? Right off the vine.

Pure and vibrant – walking the line between elegance and opulence. Without question, the palate here rivals that of a fine Pinot Noir – but it’s lighter and a little higher-pitched. It lights up with food (light-medium bodied fare) – Poached salmon? all day long. Turkey sandwich? brilliant. Light pasta? no prob. It’s drinking so well now, I don’t have the patience to wait to see how it evolves – the purity of fruit here is really the key – but will probably show other dimensions in the next 3 years. Excellent wine. A sleeper.

Update: I Vac’d ~300ml in half-bottle and popped it 24 hours later. Better integration and lusher  – with the fruit was as vibrant as ever. Even better – You could really confound folks in a blind tasting w/ this and some old and new-world Pinots.

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2 Comments leave one →
  1. Joseph Saah permalink
    May 28, 2008 7:00 am

    Glad to see that you’ve discovered the wonderful world of Kermit Lynch. He continues to convince a small number of French growers to save some unfiltered juice just for him and his devoted customers. Come visit his wonderful shop in Berkeley–right next door to Cafe Fanny, Alice Waters’ wonderful little breakfast cafe. And his monthly newsletter is a must for all lovers of the grape.

  2. August 2, 2008 8:47 pm

    Very nice!!

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